Te Syla, a restaurant in Prizren I love that specializes in grilled meats and does a mean cabbage salad, does still allow smoking in the resturant's side room. However, both the main room downstairs and the tables on the upper floor are non-smoking. I was absolutely shocked! 18 months ago, eating in Syla was like eating in an ashtray. Kosovars do two things with gusto: drive like maniacs and smoke like chimneys. I wonder how long before all restaurants are non-smoking (like they now are in Skopje, another supremely satisfying surprise).
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