Prague Roundup

Prague was fabulous, just fabulous. It was a last-minute trip, which meant that I didn't have much time to research hotels, restaurants, or sights. I booked my flight, did a cursory search for accommodation, packed my bags, and off I went.

During my short search for a hotel, I found a place called Aparthotel City 5, read reviews of the place on Trip Advisor, and emailed to see if any rooms were available. I was expecting to pay the holiday rate of 109 Euros per night, and I was surprised when I received an email from the hotel stating that not only was there a studio available, but it was available for 50 Euros per night. I took this to be a good omen and I confirmed my reservation.

I had booked my flight from Skopje to Prague just hours before learning that my classes on the 26th were cancelled due to construction going on at the university. If only I had known: I could have had two extra days! However, I spent those two days in Skopje. I don't really remember what I did: saw a movie (Stardust); ate Christmas dinner in my room (baked chicken from the supermarket); spent a lot of time enjoying the limitless hot water and 24-hour power.

My ride to PRG

But back to Prague. My room had a kitchen and was quite near a large supermarket, so I ate in all except one meal. i treated myself to items I can't get in Kosovo: mainly pork chops, baby leaf spinach, cherry tomatoes, and frozen yogurt. In fact, the grocery store was definitely a highlight and I brought back impossible-to-find items like cereal bars, beans, powdered milk, and spray olive oil.

My first task on arrival: getting to my hotel

Prague is beautiful. My first full day I woke up early and was out walking by 6:30am. No one was out and it was still dark. It was a bit eerie, actually. I started off by taking the metro, got completely turned around (nearly ending up back at my hotel), managed to get myself realigned, and was roaming around productively as the the darkness turned to twilight then dawn then day. I love cities when devoid of poeple. As the tourists started coming out, I walked back to my hotel for breakfast to refuel and plan out the rest of my day.

Early morning empty streets

After getting my bearings, I headed back towards the castle

Doggie bags

Prague castle

A nearly empty Charles Bridge

I hate walking around with a guide book, so I don't do it. Granted, there have been times when it's been necessary, and there have been times when it's been really handy to have the guide book with me. In general, though, I leave the book in the hotel. Prague was no exception. In fact, I had only purchased the guide the night before and hadn't had much of a chance to look at it. When I checked into the hotel, I was given a map, which helped to orient me somewhat. The best places I found weren't in the guide book or on the map anyway.

Museum Kampa: A lovely museum of Central European contemporary art. Hands down, this is the best contemporary art museum I've been in yet: It puts the Hara Museum of Contemporary Art in Tokyo, which is another great space, in a distant second. It could be that I was lulled into love by the Frank Malina kinetic art exhibit because it reminded me of my fascination with the beer clocks of the 1970's that feature simulations of running water. Or it could have been because of the purple metallic car engine in the Theodor Pistek exhibition. Or it could have been because of the beauty of the items displayed in the permanent collection. Whatever the reason, I loved it.

I also went to the Museum of Decorative Arts, which is in the guide book. However, what the guide book doesn't mention is that from the small room displaying time pieces, you have a great view over the (old) Jewish Cemetery, which you can't see from the street because it's walled off. The room held drawers displaying beautifully ornate pocket watches and also had a fine collection of table-top clocks. I was in that room for a long time.

A memorial that caught my eye

What does thinking pink have to do with Yosemite?

Happy Prague, Happy Kirsten

A man in a boat in the river

I spent one evening walking up to the castle and exploring the empty streets. In a nearby square, preparations were gloing on for some kind of skiing event. There was a groomer going around a man-made-snow covered loop. The castle was lit up nicely, but there were no people around, which I thought was strange because it was still fairly early in the evening (around 7pm).

Prague Castle at night

Night view over Prague

Push the button: Cross the street

My final bus ride: To the airport

I spent my time in Prague walking. Only having two full days there, I know I barely tasted what the city offers, but I believe that Prague deserves a second visit.

Prague...

...was wonderful. There's some good Czech graffiti to prove it:

And, of course, the mandatory castle shot. (Prague is the most beautiful city I've been to yet.)

Lemons into Lemonade

Even though I've been avoiding thinking about it, I am a bit bummed out that I can't be home for Christmas. I have classes scheduled at the university today (the 24th), Boxing Day, and New Year's eve. I can't justify cancelling classes just so I can go off on holiday. Today, however, when I arrived at the university for my 9am class, all of the desks and chairs from all the classrooms had been piled out into the hallways. Classes have been quite unexpectedly cancelled until Thursday. Not one to let a lack of communication keep me from holding classes, I conducted my 9am class with five students in a freezing cold classroom (our breath was highly visible). We had a few presentations to get through and I don't have enough time left to reschedule them. Of course, after the presentations were done, we all went home (or to a cafe for coffee).

I was a bit miffed, to tell the truth. Had someone informed me that classes this week were to be cancelled, I could have gone home for Christmas. Ugh. Instead of wasting my suddenly free week moping around the house, grumbling because I could have returned to Reno were it not for the university conspiring against me, I'm going to Prague. I booked myself a flight out of Skopje on Thursday, and I'll return on Sunday. Instead of waiting for Thursday to roll around before I head out to the airport, I'm leaving tomorrow to spend a few nights in Skopje before I go to Prague. It's unfortunate I have classes on New Year's Eve, which, to tell the truth, will probably fall through for some reason-or-another, but accommodation is fairly pricey everywhere on New Year's Eve, so maybe it's just as good that I'm returning to Kosovo.

Prague! I hardly gave it much thought although I did briefly consider Vienna with a side trip to Bratislava...maybe I'll do that in the spring. I've always wanted to go to Prague, and I managed to book a direct flight, so why not? The place I'm staying, the Aparthotel City 5 is giving me a room for 50 Euros per night, which I thought was reasonable (their rack rate during this superhigh season is 109 Euros per night).

I went to the bus company to make sure the bus from Prizren to Skopje is running tomorrow: it is (both the 5:30am and 9am departures). In Macedonia, Christmas is celebrated on January 7th (Orthodox Christmas) so it'll be business-as-usual there. Tomorrow is a holiday in Kosovo as is Orthodox Christmas. I'm excited to take a bit of a vacation because although I can't come home, I can at least go somewhere new and interesting.

Merry Christmas!